A sharp knife is a safe knife. It's also a joy to use. Yet for something so fundamental, knife sharpening remains a mystery to many people who otherwise know their way around tools. After teaching hundreds of people to sharpen over the years, I've learned that the problem isn't complexity—it's overthinking.

This guide will teach you how to get your knives sharp and keep them that way. We'll focus on techniques that actually work in the real world, not theoretical perfection.

Understanding What Sharp Really Means

Before we touch a stone, let's be clear about what we're trying to achieve. A sharp edge is simply two surfaces meeting at a thin, consistent line. That's it. All the mystique about angles, grits, and techniques boils down to creating and maintaining that meeting point.

When a knife gets dull, that fine edge has either rolled over, chipped away, or worn down. Sharpening removes metal to reestablish that clean meeting point. Everything else is just refinement.

Choosing Your Sharpening Method

There are dozens of ways to sharpen a knife, but three methods cover 99% of real-world needs:

Whetstones: The Gold Standard

Whetstones give you complete control over the sharpening process. They're what I recommend for anyone serious about maintaining their knives.

Pros:

• Total control over angle and pressure

• Can handle any steel, any condition

• Most economical long-term

• Develops valuable skill

Cons:

• Steeper learning curve

• Takes more time

• Requires practice for consistency

Guided Systems: The Reliable Middle Ground

Guided systems like the Spyderco Sharpmaker or Lansky clamp the blade or guide your hands to maintain consistent angles.

Pros:

• Much easier to maintain angles

• Good results with less practice

• Faster than learning freehand

• Very repeatable results

Cons:

• Less flexible than stones

• Can be awkward with some blade shapes

• Initial investment higher than basic stones

Pull-Through Sharpeners: The Quick Touch-Up

Quality pull-through sharpeners have their place, despite what purists might tell you.

Pros:

• Fastest option

• No skill required

• Good for quick touch-ups

• Portable

Cons:

• Limited to preset angles

• Can remove more metal than necessary

• Won't fix damaged edges

• Not suitable for all blade shapes

The Whetstone Method: A Step-by-Step Guide

Since whetstones offer the most versatility and control, let's walk through the process. These fundamentals apply whether you're using a $20 combination stone or a $200 Japanese water stone.

What You'll Need

• A whetstone (start with 400/1000 grit combination at a minimum)

• Water (for water stones) or oil (for oil stones)

• A towel

• The dull knife

• Patience

Finding Your Angle

The biggest hurdle for beginners is maintaining a consistent angle. Most knives sharpen well between 15-20 degrees per side. Our knives (barring scandi grinds) are at 20 degrees per side. Here's how to find it:

1. Lay the knife flat on the stone

2. Lift the spine until you've created roughly a 20-degree angle

3. A good visual cue: the spine should be about the height of two stacked quarters above the stone

Don't obsess over the exact angle. Consistency matters more than perfection. A knife sharpened at a consistent 25 degrees will cut better than one with angles wandering between 15 and 20.

The Basic Stroke

1. Start at the heel - Place the heel of the blade on the far end of the stone

2. Draw across and down - Pull the knife toward you while sliding it sideways so the tip ends up at the near edge of the stone

3. Maintain pressure - Use moderate, even pressure throughout the stroke

4. Count your strokes - Do the same number on each side to maintain symmetry

Building the Burr

The key to knowing when you've sharpened enough is feeling for a burr—a tiny fold of metal that forms on the opposite edge from the one you're sharpening.

1. Sharpen one side with overlapping strokes until you feel a slight catch when you (carefully) run your finger from the spine over the edge

2. This burr should run the entire length of the blade

3. Once you have a consistent burr, switch sides

4. Repeat until you've raised a burr on the second side

Refining the Edge

Once you've established a burr on both sides:

1. Switch to your finer grit (1000+)

2. Use lighter pressure and fewer strokes

3. Alternate sides every few strokes

4. The goal is to remove the burr while polishing the edge

The Final Touch

Remove any remaining burr by:

• Drawing the edge through a piece of wood

• Stropping on leather or even cardboard

• Very light passes on your finest stone

Common Mistakes and How to Avoid Them

Inconsistent Angle
The number one mistake. Focus on keeping your wrist locked and moving from your shoulder. Practice the motion without pressure first.

Too Much Pressure
Let the stone do the work. Heavy pressure doesn't speed things up—it just makes control harder and can damage the edge.

Skipping Grits
Going straight from a coarse stone to ultra-fine won't give you a good edge. Progress through grits systematically.

Ignoring the Tip
Many people get the belly sharp but neglect the tip. Make sure your stroke carries all the way through.

Impatience
Sharpening isn't a race. Rushed work means poor edges and possibly damaged knives. Take your time.

Maintaining Your Edge

A sharp knife is easier to maintain than to restore. Here's how to keep your edges longer:

Use a Steel or Strop Regularly
A few passes on a steel or leather strop can realign your edge without removing metal. Do this every few uses.

Cut on Appropriate Surfaces
Glass, stone, and ceramic plates destroy edges. Use wood or plastic cutting boards.

Store Knives Properly
Edges banging around in drawers get damaged. Use a knife block, magnetic strip, or edge guards.

Clean and Dry After Use
Corrosion starts at the thin edge first. Keep knives clean and dry to maintain sharpness.

When to Sharpen

Your knife will tell you when it needs attention:

• It slides on tomato skin instead of biting in

• You need pressure to cut paper

• It feels like it's pushing through food rather than slicing

• You see light reflecting off the edge

Don't wait until your knife is completely dull. Regular maintenance is easier than major restoration.

Different Steels, Different Approaches

The two premium steels we work with most have distinct sharpening characteristics:

CPM 3V

• Sharpens relatively easily for a premium steel

• Takes an excellent working edge without excessive effort

• Can develop a stubborn burr—use edge-trailing strokes to remove it

• Responds beautifully to stropping

• Regular stones work fine, though diamonds speed the process

CPM MagnaCut

• Noticeably more wear-resistant during sharpening

• Benefits significantly from diamond stones, especially for reprofiling

• Takes exceptional edges but requires patience

• The corrosion resistance means no worry about water or residue during sharpening

• Worth the extra effort—edges last notably longer than most steels

The Bottom Line

Sharpening is a skill, not a talent. Anyone can learn to put a serviceable edge on a knife with a little practice. Start with basic equipment, focus on consistency over perfection, and sharpen regularly rather than waiting for complete dullness.

Remember, the goal isn't to impress other knife enthusiasts with mirror polishes and hair-splitting edges (though that's fun too). The goal is to keep your knives cutting efficiently and safely. A working edge maintained by your own hands beats a factory edge that's been neglected.

Pick a method that fits your patience and needs. Practice on less expensive knives first. Most importantly, don't let perfect be the enemy of good. Your first edges might not win any competitions, but they'll cut, and they'll get better with every session.

Sharp knives make every cutting task easier, safer, and more enjoyable. Once you develop the skill to maintain them yourself, you'll wonder why you waited so long to learn.